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By Mark
Whitaker BBC It seems perverse that one of the main roads out of one of the highest
cities on Earth should actually climb as it leaves town. But climb it does - just short of a lung-sapping five kilometres
(three miles) above sea level, where even the internal combustion engine is
forced to toil and splutter. Then it pauses for a while on the snow-flecked crest of the The road from Many of them perished in the effort. Now it is mainly Bolivians who
die on the road - in their thousands. In 1995, the Inter American Development Bank christened it the most
dangerous road in the world. And, as you start your descent, and your driver
whispers a prayer, you begin to see why. |
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"Every
year it is estimated 200 to 300 people die on
a stretch of road less than |
Crosses at the
roadside mark the locations of fatal accidents. |
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The bird's eye view is on the left, on the front seat passenger's
side, where the Earth itself seems to open up. A gigantic vertical crack appears. Way below, more than half a mile
beneath your passenger window, you can see - cradled between canyon walls - a
thin silver thread: the On the driver's side there is a sheer rock wall rising to the heavens.
There is no margin of error. The road itself is barely three metres wide.
That is if you can call it a road. After the initial stretch to the top of the mountain it is just dirt
track. And yet - incredibly - it is a major route for trucks and buses. Hairpin bends Drivers stop to pour libations of beer into the earth - to beseech the
goddess Pachamama for safe passage. Then, chewing coca leaves to keep themselves awake, they are off at
break-neck speeds in vehicles which should not be on any road, let alone this
one. Perched on hairpin bends over dizzying precipices, crosses and stone But even these stark warnings are all too often ignored. As first one
- and then a second impatient motorist - overtook our car on the ravine side
of the road, my own driver - who hardly ever spoke a word and only then in
his native Aymara - intoned loudly, eerily and in
perfect English..."You will die." It is not a rash prediction to make. |
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Extreme weather
conditions make driving more hazardous. |
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Every year it is estimated 200 to 300 people die on a stretch of road
less than It is the end of the dry season in Then will come those heart-stopping moments when wheels skid and
brakes fail to grip. There are stories told of truckers too tired - or too
afraid - to continue, who pull over for the night, hoping to see out an
Andean storm. But they have parked too close to the edge. And as they sleep
in their cabs, the road is washed away around them. This is not the place to drop off. Cliff edge But for now the road is a ribbon of dust. Every vehicle passing along
it churns up a sandstorm in its wake. Choking, blinding clouds obscure the way ahead. Around one hairpin, a
cloud of debris was beginning to clear. As it did, I could see people milling around in the road. Passengers
from one of the overloaded and decrepit buses which run the gauntlet of this
road. It seemed at first that they had got off to stretch their legs, while
their driver argued with another vehicle coming in the other direction about
who should give way. (Reversing is not something you undertake lightly on a
cliff edge.) It transpired instead though, that the bus driver was dying. Blinded
by the dust, he had run into the back of a truck. The bus's steering column
had gone through him - severing his legs. There was nothing anyone could do. Mobile phones do not work here. In
any case, who would you call? There are no emergency services. And no way of getting help through, even if any were to be found. The
bus driver bled to death. We edged past the crumpled bus, and headed on. Further down the road we passed a spot where a set of fresh tyre
tracks headed out into the void. They told their own story. High in the Who knows when it will be complete? Until it is, people will have to
continue offering up their prayers, and taking their lives in their hands on
the most dangerous road in the world. |
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